300 years of underwear at the Rijksmuseum
From linen underpants to luxury lingerie
Publication date: 27 June 2023 - 09:57
under/wear is a Rijksmuseum Special Collections display tracing shifts in underwear trends between 1640 and 1940 – from linen underpants belonging to 17th-century Dutch ruler Hendrik Casimir I to early 20th-century stocking suspenders. Underclothing was purely functional in the 17th century, but from the 19th century onwards undergarment increasingly became subject to changes in fashion. This was the era of corsets, petticoats, crinolines, chemise undershirts and ‘directoire’ knickers. The display is running until 9 December 2024.
Rare 17th-century undergarment
One of the most exceptional objects in the display is a pair of underpants dating from between 1630 and 1640. It belonged to Hendrik Casimir I, Count of Nassau-Dietz and ruling Stadtholder of the Dutch province of Friesland. Undergarments such as these were worn in the 17th-century only by the very wealthy, so they are now very rare. Most men in this period wore a long shirt tucked into their trousers. This pair of underpants is one of very few in Europe to have survived from the 17th century. It has been preserved thanks to the decision of Hendrik Casimir’s family to keep his clothing in memory of his death on the battlefield.
Beauty ideal
Items of underwear such as corsets, crinolines, foundation garments, brassieres and shapewear have all had their part to play in perpetuating the beauty standards of their day. Corsets, for example, helped women achieve the desired silhouette by narrowing the waist, either flattening or pushing up the breasts, and straightening the back. The use of panniers and hoops to support wide skirts made the wearer’s waist appear even slimmer.
Lingerie
Underwear grew ever more decorative with the passing of the centuries. From the mid-19th century onwards, undergarments took on a more sensual character, with the increasing use of lace, silk and distinctive colour combinations. One outstanding example of this fashion – featured in the display – is a pink 'crepe de chine' slip trimmed with a broad strip of appliqué lace, with matching briefs. It was also in the 19th century that mass production techniques made lingerie much more widely available.
Design
The design of the display is by the French architecture firm Wilmotte & Associés.
