10 things Point of View

In the 16th and 17th centuries, all children in the Netherlands, wore skirts until they were about seven years old. Surprisingly gender-neutral when compared with now. But even then parents and carers made it quite clear what their child’s gender was from the style of their collar, name, or tie.

Hand on the hip! Whereas today it is a way to accentuate the waist, in the past it was a military pose, showing the hand on a weapon. A pose to take up space, both literally and figuratively.

In this world full of objects, many carry implicit ideas about gender. Form and ornamentation, function and use, all speak to the intended users. Like with this virginal: an instrument for young women (what’s in a name). At this stationary instrument women could composedly stand or sit and play without making large movements.

Traditionally, gender is often portrayed as a pair, as two opposites that complement each other. As man and woman. Since the 20th century, women artists and LGBTI+ artists have increasingly represented themselves and their own relationships. Bieruma Oosting made this illustration for a book she was planning to make with Netty Wind (pseudonym A.H. Nijhoff) about their relationship.

Women do not create a single image of women or femininity, instead giving it meaning in their own way. Ferdi, who made this Wombtomb (womb and tomb in one), said: ‘There is no such thing as female art. There is only art by women. When I used to weld [to make artworks], I wasn’t making male art.’

Also in the past there were people who did not conform to the gender rules of their day. It was tolerated, punished, mocked or sometimes admired, but mostly kept secret. That’s why portraits are rare, but they do exist. As of Chevalier(ère) d’Éon from the 18th century. This French diplomat, soldier and spy lived 50 years as a man and then 30 years as a woman.

Before the 19th century, men were not expected to dress soberly. They wore accessories that sometimes had a function, or were just pretty, or both. Like this toothpick pendant in the shape of a dragon from the 16th century! However small, it emphasises the status of the wearer.

If there is one garment that empowers the wearer, it is trousers. These are the earliest trousers in the Rijksmuseum collection that were made for a woman. In the 1920s, it became fashionable for women to wear pyjamas about the home as loungewear. This pair may have been designed by French fashion designer Gabrielle (Coco) Chanel. She initially made trousers for herself, inspired by those worn by the men around her.

What does a person’s wardrobe tell us about their gender? What is perceived as ‘masculine’ in one context may be considered ‘feminine’ in another age. Heels, tailored jackets, floral patterns: there is no such thing as an inherently feminine or masculine shape, colour, fabric or decoration. These floral silk mules, for example, were worn by a man in the 18th century.

Lace was one of the most expensive fabrics. Until the end of the 18th century, lace was worn by everyone. But in the 19th century, when the labour-intensive handwork was replaced by industry, it became less expensive. Male fashion sobered, lace came increasingly to be seen as feminine. Yet, there was no distinction in the material itself.