Pendant in the form of a cockerel
c. 1600-1610
Gold, diamonds, crystal, rubies, heliotropes, baroque pearl, enamel
7,5 x 4,5 cm
BK-NM-7459
Animal-shaped jewellery was all the fashion around 1600. An exclusive piece like this would probably have been made for a member of a royal household. A similar jewel is known to have been worn by Danish royalty. The maker of that pendant, Jacob Mores, may even have made this cockerel. Mores was a jeweller and engraverEngravingEngraving involves the scratching of a text or design into an object. Various techniques exist since every material requires different treatment. Copperplate engraving requires a steel-tipped graver - a burin. This is used to scratch lines into the surface. A print of the design can be made when the plate is coated in ink. Glass can also be engraved. To make lines on glass, however, a diamond-point graver is employed. Tones of shade can be introduced with hatching. from Hamburg. The colourful bird steps forward gallantly, clutching an arrow in his raised claw. His body is formed by a large irregular pearl, referred to as a ' baroque pearl' because of its capricious shape. A head was added in gold, along with a tail and legs. The gold is embellished with coloured enamelEnamelCeramic, glass and metal objects can be decorated by painting on a layer of 'enamel'. This consists of coloured or transparent glass powder, mixed with metal oxide. To be able to paint with the substance, a binding agent is added. After applying the decoration the whole object is heated, allowing the enamel paint to smelt and form a fine, smooth surface. The result may be either transparent or opaque, depending on the consistency of the enamel paint. During firing the colour of the enamel may change a little, but a practised enameller takes account of this. Enamelling is centuries old - it was a method already in use in ancient Egypt. and inlaid with cut gemstones - rubies, heliotropes and crystal. |